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| CAPITAL IMPROVEMENT |
| Drafted and eager to serve |
Jeremy Sutton |
March 2010 CAPITAL IMPROVEMENT By Jeremy Sutton Supposedly, you can have too much of a good thing. And while that may be true on occasion, the folks at Capital Ale House are willing to take that risk, at least when it involves beer. One of the most recent additions to a morphing downtown scene is settling in as a staple after a year and a half of providing drafts to our cities denizens. Located at 917 Caroline St., Capital Ale House occupies the address previously known as Chords and probably best remembered for another regional franchise, Spanky’s. At only 25 feet wide and almost 300 feet long, it’s a classic downtown space. While you sometimes feel like leaving contact information before the long trip to the men’s room, all this length allows for a pleasant delineation of space. With the massive bar and a small fireplace defining the front of the building, a room of bustling booths for dining takes up the middle, and a well appointed lounge in back with overstuffed leather chairs and even a dartboard (hey guy, drink some beer and try to throw this sharp object straight!) make one restaurant many, with your choice of atmosphere. The interior was remodeled by Capital Ale House and it’s a loving one. Sturdy 200 year old beams and original brick work lay open for inspection, while modern light fixtures and a the cool fluorescent of a bank of cooler doors holding bottled beers cast an almost Grail-ish glow across the reverent patrons. And any patron to the bar instantly notices an Ale House signature, the ice rail. Snaking the entire 80’ of the bar, the ingenious addition allows for that perfect pint to stay cool (but not too cold) as you sip your suds. Before most of us are even thinking about coffee, the kitchen staff fills the rail and allows about 2 hours for it to freeze solid. At the end of each evening, the coils are cut off and it takes most of the night to melt. You can use this ice rail on any of their over 200 beers. With 60 beers on tap and another 200 odd selections in bottle and can, you won’t want for variety. An international selection gets you beers from virtually every corner of the world, but nods heavily towards Belgium and the United States. And firm believers in the shop local movement, Capital Ale House features many of the Commonwealth’s best brews. Fredericksburg’s own Blue & Gray Brewing Co. has bombers on hand, Blue Ridge Brewing from Nelson County makes a great IPA, Legend Brewery from Richmond, St. George from Hampton Roads and one of Virginia’s first craft beers, Dominion Brewing from Ashburn all have spots on the list, with 5 to 6 on tap at any given time. Regional favorites include Troeg’s from Pennsylvania, Duck Rabbit from North Carolina and Dogfish Head from Delaware (who recently did a huge tasting with over 20 beers from the brewery on tap, including many special release concoctions hard to find on draft). Former beer buyer Rachael Cardwell (now back in Richmond, with new buyer Joe Young on the way) and staff drink their way through the portfolios of many a wholesaler to find the best of the best to offer to their customers. Even at around 300 offerings, there are more beers they don’t carry than do, speaking to high standards. Field trips to breweries such as Bells in Michigan and Brooklyn Brewing in NYC are part of the perks, but also offer a better, more personal look into these breweries styles and goals. Stop by and say hello. As the weather warms (don’t worry, it really will) you’ll find those feet steering you out the door and past the front porch. May as well have a beer while you’re out... Jeremy Sutton is FP’s At-Large columnist, a purveyor of fine wines, and an imbiber of great beer.
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